Prague Castle (Pražský Hrad) watches proudly over the Great city like a protective parent. An Alcatraz on the hilltop, persistently visible for miles. It needs no introduction, no reminder of its omnipresence. It’s always there, no matter where you are, nagging at the corner of your eye.
At the time, I wasn’t aware of its status as the second largest castle in the world, (the largest being Malbork Castle, Poland). But I didn’t care, I was here for the experience, and what an experience it was.
Starting from where I left off in Mostecká, I didn’t need a guide, the topology ushered me up its steep incline toward the only obvious endpoint. Today was a bitterly cold one, so this blood pumping exercise was the perfect antidote.
The beautiful scenery and architecture were, unfortunately, having less of an impact by this time, I’d been spoiled, overdosed on it. It had become the default backdrop to my meanderings, but that was about to change in dramatic fashion. All roads lead up, narrowing and converging on each other, welcoming you onward rather than getting you lost. The big retail chains gradually morphed into boutique stalls, fitting in with the ever diminishing scale.
As the incline drew to an abrupt halt, the road became a steeply inclined series of ramps, culminating in an archway of stone steps reaching as far as the eye could see. During summer, these outskirts were home to a stunning flower garden, beckoning you forward, one step at a time. Today, it was a welcome exercise in keeping warm.
As I neared the summit, visibility of the castle itself was almost non-existent. I was too close to have any sort of vantage point as my neck craned backwards to observe the way forward.
As I emerged out of the final archway, a feeling I’ve only ever experienced at this very spot. Firstly, there’s the relief of completing the last step of your journey to the summit of Prague, next, the release of seeing daylight again and the cool breeze on your brow. And finally, in the briefest of breathtaking moments, a gigantic towering gothic rocket-ship knocks you straight between the eyes and almost back down the steps. My already craning neck needed to lever back even more, to the point where it was physically uncomfortable to make out the top of the Cathedral’s spire.
Truth be told, I’ve never been that big on history. I visit places to enjoy them, to see something new and exciting. Prague Castle, of course, has a story all its own, but today, nothing could compare to the breathtaking enormity of what stood before me. Although still a good 50-100 metres away from the main attraction, my senses were overloaded to almost the point of complete debilitation.
St. Vitus Cathedral (Katedrála Sv. Víta), on closer inspection, is actually multi-spired and without doubt one of the most spectacular objects I’ve ever seen. Perhaps it’s because of the effort it took to get up here, perhaps it’s the location at the very peak of Prague, but there’s something very special about just being in its presence, hanging around the surrounding courtyard seemed almost akin to an ancient departure lounge to the cosmos. Time seems to slow, troubles seem to fade away and you feel yourself slip into the moment, of being here at this spot in the world, at this precise point in time and space, essentially offloading your baggage and just ‘being’.
Everyone seemed eerily relaxed, unrushed as if floating on low gravity. It’s hard to tear yourself away, break its spell on you. I would’ve stayed there forever if I could.
Following the crowds down a thoroughfare took me to the oddity of the Toy Museum. On the surface, this was chintz of the highest order, a sobering come-down from my earlier daydream. Ignoring the Barbie dolls and teddy bears, I was unexpectedly taken on a wonderful trip down memory lane. Action Force figures from my childhood, all the vehicles, lovingly displayed just like I’d always wanted but never got the chance to. There was a time, before work and bills and stress when collecting this stuff was all that mattered. It took me back to more innocent times and made me take stock.
All in all, a rather pleasant distraction.
Much has been said about the Singing Fountain (Zpívající fontána). For me, it’s merely the focal point to the stunning Gardens of the Castle grounds, yet another example of the close bond between Prague and music. I never did see any singing or even that much of a fountain.
Almost by design, if the Cathedral courtyard was akin to a chequerboard ethereal plane focussed on the moment, and the toy museum took me back to my childhood, the misty castle gardens provided a vehicle for contemplation, making plans and looking forward to the future. Today was icy, crisp, focussing my thoughts even more as the garden’s precise lines and attention to detail provided a metaphor for housekeeping my own life. Almost as if the Garden was speaking to me.
The perfectly manicured lawns and paths, of course, didn’t really go anywhere, but it was a pleasure to enjoy someone else’s joy, and take something from it. They say you can tell how much love a chef puts into a dish. It was the same here. Prague’s message to the world, right here in this Garden.
Do what you love, and excel in it.
Back to the path by the toy museum, I continued on, to a plateau of sorts, battlements back in the day, now a viewing platform and the greatest vantage point of all. Prague’s worldview, in intricate stark detail. All the places I’d visited so far laid out before me. The great River, Charles bridge, every spire, every structure captured in a picture-perfect panorama of wonder. This was a moment for contemplation, introspection and finally piecing together Prague’s jigsaw, reconciling all I’d seen and learned.
Happily, from up here at least, the Musical City stood tall and proud. Unhindered by the past. The uniform terracotta roofs against white stone-work, bound together like a close, loving family, resilient through the ages and the storms. Love and pride vs oppression and hate? It was clear from up here who the winner was always going to be.
Prague Castle is magnificent. Not just for what it is, or what it stands for, but for how it makes you feel. The Jewel in the Musical City’s crown
More from Prague: The Musical City
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Prague : The Musical City – Wenceslas Square
Prague : The Musical City – Na Příkopě
Prague : The Musical City. Národní
Prague : The Musical City. The Old Town Square & Astronomical Clock
Prague : The Musical City. Karlovy Lázně